53º south


Punta Arenas, Chile, latitude 53°00'S longitude 070°51'W

There are less than 2 people per square kilometre in Patagonia and most of them live in the frontier city of Punta Arenas.

First impressions are of a really friendly town with very little crime. It's Spring here but they still get 70 mile an hour winds, just about every week. I took a stroll around town today and settled in at a coffee shop, the key was still in the front door, which goes to show that this is a very safe environment.

Winter time, life here is extremely harsh; daylight is just a few hours and the town gets absolutely battered by strong winds and sub-zero degree temperatures. It's fairly windy here today with bright sunshine but there is a massive cloud formation heading this way from the northwest.The main square is a focal point and there is one main street, which has a pretty good array of shops, no sign of the Colonel or the Golden Arches, which is very refreshing!

Punta Arenas lies on the eastern side of the Magdalen Strait. It is a long way south, under a 1000 miles from Antarctica.We are south of both Australia and New Zealand. Tomorrow, we start our journey by boat to Cape Horn. The cruise ship is a good 200 ft long and to be quite honest, I wouldn't like to take on this sort of environment in anything much smaller.



Drummer boys and Caiprinhia

Well I got my steak, served with some spicy mash and an excellent bottle of Cab.sav. Being out with a bunch of journalists the conversation was pretty up beat and we had a good night on the Bohemian district of Santiago. Including a round of 'best used press phrases' and an advanced session of 'exotic descriptions for Milton Keynes'.

Early on we were entertained by two street musicians, two young gypsies whirling around playing drums on their backs, producing a latin beat, similar to the foot-stomping rhythm reminiscent of a World Cup crowd.

A few Pisco Sours and Caiprinhias later, we explored more of the area, much to our shame, we ended up in an Irish Pub with the original name of 'Dublin'.

Santiago is over 20 degrees Celsius during the day but the expected weather in Ushuaia is barely above freezing, especially with a wind chill factor. In sharp contrast, (journo-soundbite fully intended) Ushuaia is a city of just 68,000 people, more of a frontier town than a financial metropolis.

Heading south, Punta Arenas next...yes that is how you spell it.

Louay