Proper howling

The northwesterly wind picks up pace as it rolls down the Andes and blasts into Punta Arenas like an avalanche. It is absolutely screeching, I would estimate that the wind speed in the protected main square is 40 knots, announcing its awesome presence in every gust.

Out to sea is a bleak and colourless landscape, from my room at Hotel Cabo de Hornos, I can see out over the Magdalen Strait and the shadows of land to the south. The weather has closed in and the sky has taken on a frosted appearance echoing the grey sea below.

The sea state is only slight, seemingly knocked flat by the incessant wind, however the water is white with foam, spewing into the air. It's bloody fresh!

There are a few people out in the open, being buffeted by the conditions, but life seems top go on as normal; the school bus is operational and shops are open but no wonder the buildings here are painted a variety of colours. If it weren’t for this spectrum of make-up, Punta Arenas would be viewed in black and white.

The old port here is now a memory of the past, it used to be the only umbilical chord for supplies from the outside world. Now most of the produce comes in by air.The waterfront is being redeveloped, a big children’s play area is a great idea but you have to wonder at the thought process that went into putting basket ball hoops outside in a place like this. Forgivable for sure, but the glass conference centre quite apply named – Dreams, which sticks out like a giant enormous glass pencil sharpener has got to be a mistake of white elephant proportions. Who on earth is going to use it? This area is rich in natural gas and you can probably guess that the edifice is a way of not giving all the money to central government. But I ask you, why not build and indoor sports complex for the local kids instead?

Perhaps my thoughts are turning grey and dull like the weather but outside it is difficult to hear yourself think, let alone raise your spirits in a place like this.

Today we leave the last vestiges of man’s attempt at rejuvenating land and head into the wilderness, I am looking forward to the adjustment to black and white, I have a feeling it may extenuate the colours of this land and its wildlife.

Boarding the boat in about this afternoon, to be honest with you, I have some feelings of trepidation, I can see the Via Australis cruise ship, because it dominates the port, due to its size. However, I am all too well aware that conditions on land are usually far better than at sea.

From this evening, the blog will rely on a satellite fix for the BGAN Explorer 110 from Xtra-Link. The unit is about the size of a chunky paperback and it is made by Thrane & Thrane. The same company that produce the ‘bullet-proof’ sat.com and radio hardware for the Volvo Ocean Race. I have absolute faith in the kit, but getting a fix on a satellite at sea level surrounded by mountains, maybe a little tricky.

Louay

53º south


Punta Arenas, Chile, latitude 53°00'S longitude 070°51'W

There are less than 2 people per square kilometre in Patagonia and most of them live in the frontier city of Punta Arenas.

First impressions are of a really friendly town with very little crime. It's Spring here but they still get 70 mile an hour winds, just about every week. I took a stroll around town today and settled in at a coffee shop, the key was still in the front door, which goes to show that this is a very safe environment.

Winter time, life here is extremely harsh; daylight is just a few hours and the town gets absolutely battered by strong winds and sub-zero degree temperatures. It's fairly windy here today with bright sunshine but there is a massive cloud formation heading this way from the northwest.The main square is a focal point and there is one main street, which has a pretty good array of shops, no sign of the Colonel or the Golden Arches, which is very refreshing!

Punta Arenas lies on the eastern side of the Magdalen Strait. It is a long way south, under a 1000 miles from Antarctica.We are south of both Australia and New Zealand. Tomorrow, we start our journey by boat to Cape Horn. The cruise ship is a good 200 ft long and to be quite honest, I wouldn't like to take on this sort of environment in anything much smaller.



Drummer boys and Caiprinhia

Well I got my steak, served with some spicy mash and an excellent bottle of Cab.sav. Being out with a bunch of journalists the conversation was pretty up beat and we had a good night on the Bohemian district of Santiago. Including a round of 'best used press phrases' and an advanced session of 'exotic descriptions for Milton Keynes'.

Early on we were entertained by two street musicians, two young gypsies whirling around playing drums on their backs, producing a latin beat, similar to the foot-stomping rhythm reminiscent of a World Cup crowd.

A few Pisco Sours and Caiprinhias later, we explored more of the area, much to our shame, we ended up in an Irish Pub with the original name of 'Dublin'.

Santiago is over 20 degrees Celsius during the day but the expected weather in Ushuaia is barely above freezing, especially with a wind chill factor. In sharp contrast, (journo-soundbite fully intended) Ushuaia is a city of just 68,000 people, more of a frontier town than a financial metropolis.

Heading south, Punta Arenas next...yes that is how you spell it.

Louay


Santiago

Santiago. The Chilean capital and home to nearly 5 million people. Santiago lies at the foot of the Andes, the highest mountain range in the world, outside Asia. It is thought of as one of the most cosmopolitan of cities in South America.

First impressions? Smart med-style cafes and skyscrapers but they are in sharp contrast to the shanty towns near the airport. Santiago is a modern metropolis but this is most definitely a third world country.


Not much time to explore Santiago and to be honest, a hot shower and flaking out in the hotel room, after 15 hours in the middle row of cattle class, was the right move.

Tomorrow morning, we fly 1500 miles further south to Ushuaia, the southern most city in the world and the gateway to The Beagle Channel.

Off to dinner, definitely going to be a steak and some Chilean Cab Sav.

Louay

24 hours from Punta Arenas

The adventure starts today!

First leg of the journey is a short hop to Paris from Heathrow, followed by a 14 hour flight to Santiago, the capital of Chile. After that it's a 4 hour flight to Punta Arenas, where we will board the boat that will be our home for four days.

I can't help but think that this is a pretty tiring journey but Darwin's HMS Beagle left Plymouth in May 1825 and didn't return for five years. It was an epic journey just to get there.

The original captain of The Beagle, Pringle Stokes, couldn't handle it and in the desolate land of Tierra del Fuego, he locked himself in his cabin for 14 days and eventually shot himself!


Roughly 24 hours in an aeroplane is not exactly a ball of laughs, but I don't intend to go the same way as Stokes.

Speak to you on the otherside of the planet.

Louay






Oh yes!


In just a few days time, I will be following the trail of Charles Darwin through the glaciers of Patagonia to Cape Horn. Thanks to
Xtra-Link, I will be able to blog along the way and send back pictures of the voyage.


I have to say, I am really looking forward, to what promises to be, a jaw-dropping adventure.

Louay