Day Four - The Horn

Day Four - The Horn

 

Last night we passed through a part of The Beagle Channel nicknamed Glacier Alley and witnessed the stunning beauty of the ice flows that extend towards the Pacific. By dawn, there was excitement on board. We left The Beagle Channel, to make our way to Cape Horn. The day before our arrival at Cape Horn, our sistership, the Mare Australis, was unable to land, the weather was the cause of their disappointment. We were the lucky ones and made landfall in the early hours of the morning.

 

Cape Horn is probably the most thought provoking place for any sailor. All sorts of emotions come to the surface, when you stand on this rocky island at the end of the civilised world. Historic explorers have come here in search of adventure and glory, Drake and Shackleton to name but two, have made historic voyages in the stretch of water between Cape Horn and Antarctica.

 

For sailors making Cape Horn from the Southern Ocean, including competitors in the Volvo Ocean Race and Vendee Globe. The Horn is a wonderful sight and a great relief. For them it means that they have survived the Southern Ocean. For the company of the good ship Via Australis, it was the end of a mind-boggling journey. through a land of devastating beauty.

 

Standing on the rocky point, you are compelled to look out to sea, to wonder about the profound and moving events that have taken place there. But I also took a moment to turn around and look north. Before me was the whole world, I have been fortunate enough to see much of it, but I still hungry for more.

 

This has been a wonderful trip and a huge thank you should go to the crew of Via Australis, they have been fantastic and are deeply passionate about their country. Canito - the sea lion, pictured below, proudly proclaimed that Cape Horn has always been part of Chile.

Day Two Land of the Giants - Terra del Fuego

Land of the Giants - Terra del Fuego

 

Last night as we passed out the Magellan Strait we had the first taste of the ferocity of the Southern Pacific Ocean. Although we were still inside the maze of islands, known as Tierra del Fuego. Seventy knots of wind had the Via Australis listing a fair few degrees. Horizontal snow and a pretty lumpy sea state required extreme caution. All of the watertight doors between decks were sealed but the ship handled the storm well and this morning, the storm has passed. To be honest, we pulled the pin at the bar, enjoying some excellent Argentinean Malbec, as the savage storm built up in the strait. Our course was west, beating into the teeth of the tempest, as we had to go around the glacial field which covers this area and the mountains, which reach over 2000 metres in height.

 

For now the weather is good but conditions change here rapidly. We are now well passed 54º south and the air temperature outside is barely above freezing, snow flurries are now virtually continuous. The landscape is becoming more barren and wildlife much more scarce.

 

The indigenous population of Tierra del Fuego has been virtually wiped-out, only about 12 people are left. But before Magellan, there were about 20,000 people living in this region. They had probably migrated here from the land to the north, searching for prey. They lived a nomadic lifestyle, travelling alongside prey living out of tents during the summer, before holding up in more substantial shelters in winter, covered in skins from the main diet of lamas. The origins of the name – Patagonia are believed to stem from the meaning 'big feet' and referred to the size of the people. Studies suggest that the Patagonian Indians average height was 40 centimetres more than the rest of the South American Indians.

 

 

Terra del Fuego, as this area is known was charted during The Beagle's second exploration but the area was first 'discovered' by Magellan for the Spanish in the early part of the 16^th century. Sir Frances Drake passed through the Magellan Strait to become the first Englishman to circumnavigate the globe in the Golden Hind in the late 16^th century. As he passed through to the Pacific, a terrific storm blew them south and he discovered the ocean, now called the Southern Ocean.

 

But the Spanish, who charged a handsome levy, to pass through from the Atlantic to the Pacific, controlled the Magellan Strait. William Skelton and Jacob Lemaire decided that they did not want to pay and successfully opened up the route around Cape Horn and named it after the Dutch town in Friesland, called Hoorn.

 

Our next stop was the Pia Glacier in The Beagle Channel, which is in excess of 50 metres thick and moves at more than 14 metres per day. The Pia Glacier is just a few miles from the most southerly city in the world, Ushuaia. Fortunately we got a break in the weather to witness this marvelous glacier.

Survival of the fittest

Lesson One - Survival of the fittest.

 

DAY 1: Aimirantarzgo Sound – Ainsworth Bay – Marinelli Glacier

 

As dawn was breaking we navigated through the Aimirantarzgo Sound and dropped the hook in Ainsworth Bay. It was snowing heavily but most of the ship's company decided to venture onto land. This first trip onto dry-ish land was very educational. The basic principle of Darwin's Theory of Evolution is survival of the fittest. Any worthwhile study requires a controlled environment and Patagonia certainly provides one. This is a bleak storm frequented place and only the strong can survive here but that doesn't mean that there is no life, far from it. Dolphin, penguin, Sealions, Chilean Skua, Pectral,  swift, geese

There are thousands of species of moss and lichen and other plant life, which thrive in these conditions. These plants cling to the rocks and to do so they secrete acid. This causes erosion, which eventually becomes soil, which is used by other plants, and so the chain of life goes on.

The weather deteriorated during our two-hour trek and by the time we returned to the zodiacs it was quite frankly bloody awful. As we boarded the RIBS, there was the boat chef, on the beach, braced against a tray of whiskies, which was in danger of being blown away. He didn't get many takers, getting out of sodden clothes was the greatest need.

 The trip back to Via Australis was freezing cold and to borrow a quote from one of my favourite films, Apocalypse Now. I muttered… 'never leave the boat!'.

 

However I am glad that I did and went back for some more in the afternoon with a RIB ride around Tucker Island to visit a colony of penguins.

Today we found out that there is a sound basis to Darwin's Theory of Evolution, in Patagonia it is all about survival of the fittest. But my God, what a beautiful place.

Louay

Pi,

Leaving Punta Arenas

Well we are off!

 This is my first attempt at using the satellite transmitter.

We are cracking along at about 15 knots. First glimpses of wildlife are big gannets swirling around the stern. The MV Via Australis is immaculate, beautifully maintained and I have to say I was surprised at the level of comfort.

We had a warm welcome given to us by the entire crew. The Captain announced that there are 85 passengers onboard from 18 different countries. We are a real mixture of ages, races and creed but there is definitely an air of excitement running through the boat.

Tomorrow morning we arrive at our first stop Ainsworth Bay and hopefully see a beaver damn and Magelland penguins

Just a quick update to see if the Xtra-link Explorer 110 is working.

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